Arcteryx Alpha Sv: An Honest Review

The Arcteryx Alpha SV is part of the brand's Alpha series of outerwear. This is gear that designed with minimalism in mind, especially for climbers and alpinists in unforgiving environments. Other products in this line include other shells, shell pants, and insulating mid layers. These garments are made for extreme weather. Think Mount Everest, Greenland, and Antarctica and you're in the right neighborhood.

Despite being the toughest shell in Arcteryx's line, the Alpha SV is light at just 1 pound and 1.3 ounces. It's got a slim and athletic, fit ready for the rigors of climbing and ascending and many of the design features also have activity in mind. Aesthetically, the Arcteryx Alpha SV is in step with their other shell jackets with a no-frills minimal look.

Like most of the premium hard shells on the market, the Arcteryx Alpha SV is back by Gore-Tex. Unlike many, however, this jacket features Gore's newest and most technologically advanced offering: the N100p-X Gore-Tex Pro fabric. This is a stout waterproof fabric that is comparable to an 80 denier nylon but with far better breathability. The outer surface of the shell is coated with a NU water repellent to help moisture bead up and roll away as opposed to pooling or leeching.

They also build the interior of the coat for water protection with durable sealed seams, an oversized and helmet compatible hood, waterproof zippers, and solid velcro cinches on the cuffs. The simple and durable zippers and hood provided excellent wind protection and truly make this jacket worthy of the "SV" (severe weather) moniker.

This is a burly and thick hard shell jacket, so it won't breath like soft shell or fleece. When used in appropriately cold conditions, however, you will stay dry and comfortable. Arcteryx added large pit zips in this jacket for direct venting during long climbs and ski ascents. Getting direct airflow into the core along with the high-grade Gore material allows more than enough breathability for a jacket intended for extreme cold.

The Arcteryx Alpha SV is lightweight for such a tough shell, but it's not the most packable garment on the market. It won't be an issue for those planning to wear the coat all day or those carrying large packs. That said, they make other lighter options like the Alpha AR if pack space is a concern. For those planning to head into extreme conditions we feel that lacking packability is worth the robust weather protection.

One of the standout features of the Alpha SV are pockets and storage. There are two main chest pockets on the front with slightly angled zippers. This can be critical for opening and closing the zippers with your opposite hand, which is far more anatomically comfortable. A large drop-in pocket sits inside the jacket and is large enough to house big items like a GPS, cell phone, or goggles. A smaller zippered pocket on the inside will be great for keys, wallets, and head lamps.

One reason that Arcteryx has become a trusted favorite amongst elite outdoor athletes is fit. Their garments are known for having an athletic cut that also leaves plenty of room for critical internal layers. The Alpha SV is no exception and runs true to size without any extra bunching under the strain of a pack's waistbelt.

Two of the key design features that make this a top-end jacket are Arcteryx's proprietary StormHood and WaterTight zippers. The StormHood is large and comfortable with plenty of space for ski or climbing helmet plus goggles. Where this hood really shines, however, is adjustability. It is easily customized to provide a snug or loose fit and pulls back out of eyeshot with the pull of a single elastic band.

The brand's WaterTight zippers are a weight saving improvement over the other waterproof zippers on the market. Most of the waterproof zips out there requires a small hood that covers the gap where zipper rails do not completely seal. The WaterTight zipper requires no hood but rather meets fully to create a full closure. The brand classifies these zippers as "highly water resistant" but they should keep pocket contents dry in all conditions.